Angkor Wat is a great reminder of the vast Khmer empire

The Khmer empire was in great power in Southeast Asia, more than 600 years, from AD 802 to 1432. The Angkorian period begins with the rule of Jayavarman ll (reigned 802 – 50). He set a precedent that became a feature of the Angkorian period and accounts for the staggering architectural productivity of the Khmers at this time. He established himself as a ‘god king’, whose all-reaching power expressed the godlike qualities of Shiva, a Hindu deity. Jayavarman built a ‘temple mountain’ at Phnom Kulen, which symbolised the holy mountain at the centre of the universe. This rulership continued until Jayavarman V (regned 968 – 1001).

Then followed the Classical Age in which most of the famous temples were built at Angkor. The classical age conjures up images of a golden age of abundance and leisurely temple construction. But this was a time of turmoil, conquests and setbacks. There is much debate as to the origins of Suryavarman l(reigned 1002 – 49) – he may have been of Malay origin, but is more likely to have hailed from a noble family in the northeast of Cambodia. He is thought to have come from a Buddhist background and may have sponsored the growth of Buddhism in Cambodia.

From 1065 until the end of the century, Angkor was again divided by various contenders for the throne. The first important monarch here, was Suryavarman ll (reigned 1112 – 52) who unified Cambodia and led campaigns against Vietnam, extending Khmer influence to Malaya, Myanmar and Siam. He set himself apart religiously from earlier kings, through his devotion to the Hindu deity Vishnu, to whom he consecrated the largest, most significant of all the temples, Angkor Wat.

The reign of Suryavarman ll marks one of the high-water marks of Khmer civilisation. But – it is thought that the hydraulic system of reservoirs and canals that supported the agriculture of Angkor, had now been pushed beyond capacity and was slowly starting to silt up.

In his reign Jayavarman Vl built the magnificent Angkor Thom, the centrepiece being the Bayon – most famous of temples along with Angkor Wat. He also embarked on a major public-works programme, building roads, schools and hospitals across the empire. After the death of Jayavarman Vll in 1219, the Khmer empire went into decline. The state religion reverted to Hinduism for a century or more. The Thais sacked Angkor in 1351 and again 1431. The Khmer court left Angkor to be abandoned to pilgrims, holy men and the elements.

Angkor Rediscovered

The first major restoration job was carried out on Banteay Srei in early 1930. It was such a success, that the massive Angkor Wat restoration was undertaken in 1960.

My Favourites

On that first day we were being picked up by a tuk-tuk (motorbike with a hooded carriage towed behind) I quickly got used to this form of transportation. You can see and hear and smell everything around you, it is safe – and only cost us 20 dollar for the whole day. Angkor Wat is an unbelievable sight!! It is the largest monument at Angkor, and when I saw it the first time, it took my breath away!! Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat, 190 m wide. The sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built, were quarried more than 50 km away and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts. We walked down the avenue that leads from the main entrance to the central temple. All over there were restorations being done. Louis climbed up the stairs to the upper level, where you could reach the kingdom of the gods!!! - but it too steep for me, I took some photos of him.

We were wandering around for more than 3 hours, sitting down on big ancient blocks of stone, looking at the size and splendour from all angles. I was taking lots and lots of photos, we were contemplating about the history of these passages, stairs, bas-reliefs, carvings - and what could possibly have happened here many many centuries ago ………..

When we were tired , close to lunch time, we were walking past the little stalls that were lined up next to the main entrance. We found one stall with 4 or 5 tables and some chairs - a coffee shop!! The whole family was helping - Mom was baking the ‘sweet cakes’, Dad was the waiter and making as at home with 2 ice-cold Coca Colas that he took from the ice box under the table and little baby was rocking in a small hammock, between 2 trees, fast asleep in shade with only her nappy on.

Well, we were relaxing, drinking our cold drinks and chatting to this family until we had to leave to go back to our tuk-tuk driver. We had something light to eat at the hotel and Louis was catching up on some e mails in our dark cool hotel room!!

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